I submitted a research masters at the end of 2016. It dominated my existence in 2015 and 2016. A research masters meant I did a thesis not coursework, 35 000 words later and I am relieved beyond belief that it is all over!
My graduation date was the end of September and I needed an outfit. Something that worked with a black academic gown, black mortar board and bright cherry red hood. Something like this:
I played with colours and silhouettes and realised I needed something that would support the weight and colour of the gown, not compete with it. So neutral, but not boring.
I decided on black trousers and a nice blouse. I needed a collar to hold and provide structure for the gown. I had to have buttons to anchor the hood. The gown is heavy, a knit would not cope, it had to be a woven fabric. Enter Vogue 8689, view B, and cream silk twill from the Remnant Warehouse in Sydney.
I didn’t have time to test the pattern. I decided to trust myself, measured carefully and cut the size 18 – D cup. Wise move. I added my usual alterations to top patterns – graded out to add extra width at the hip line and a full bicep adjustment. Also wise moves. I cut the back yoke in one piece, not two, and cut two of all the yoke pieces. I wanted to provide a bit more structure and strength by lining the yokes.
The pieces went together well, the drafting is excellent. The sleeves went in easily and the cuffs were straightforward. I wonder why I don’t use Vogue patterns more often! The collar is not terrific, due to operator error. I am out of practice for shirtmaking. The only change to construction was to do the burrito method for attaching the yoke and bodice. The silk was lovely to use, I do like robust natural fibres.
I like it!
Costs & details:
Pattern – Vogue 8689, bought a while ago in one of the many online Vogue sales, $6.00
Fabric – 2.2 metres of 100% silk twill from The Remnant Warehouse. I used most of it. $16.96 per metre, $37.31 in total.
Threads – 1000m spool of Rasant thread, matched by the Remnant Warehouse – $8.50
Other notions – from stash.
Nuisance factor – very low, this was a pleasure all along.
Total = $51.81