I made a cardigan! (Kibbe sewing 4)

Earlier this year I wrote about my sewing plans for 2019. I also wrote about a year of Kibbe inspired sewing. This post is mostly about my first Kibbe inspired top. At the end of 2018 I bought Jalie 3677, the Helene Cardigan. I liked the lines and the subtle shaping provided by the peplum skirt section. It has very positive reviews all over the interwebs for both the silhouette and drafting quality. In terms of Kibbe, tops (cardigans or jackets) should be:

Softly tailored with curvy shaping (subdued, not fussy) that gently shows the waist. Short to moderate lengths are best, although a longer length is possible in a belted jacket or one that has a very understated peplum. They can have slight shoulder definition with crisp pads and tapered sleeves. This detail should be subdued and understated, not fussy or overdone.

Score! I bought what I thought was a wool blend double knit from Eliza’s in Sunshine. A burn test indicated it was polyester blended with another synthetic. Sigh. And it is #MelbourneBlack again. Which means I have a wearable toile for work (black cardigan/jacket is stipulated in the uniform code) and terrible photographs.

I traced off the pattern and discovered that the sleeves have a symmetrical sleeve head. This is new to me, even on a casual knit garment. I did my sleeve adjustments –  added 2cm to the bicep, shortened the length and this time I tapered to a slightly wider wrist measurement. I wanted this to go easily over long sleeves.

I like the idea of a Hong Kong finish but not the hours involved. Instead I used decorative threads in the loopers of my overlocker.

This is varigated thread from Mettler. The grey is almost invisible, the blue and pink were more obvious.

Once I trialled them in the overlocker they were easier to see:

The blue won. I love blue, my eyes are blue, my favourite clothes are blue. Even my wedding dress was blue..

I attached the pockets with black thread, but now wish I’d done them in the blue too. This cardigan was constructed entirely on the overlocker and coverstitch machine.

After wearing it for a few days I noticed that the collar was quite high for me and that the fabric was too sturdy to naturally pleat down. It was making me fidget so I decided to stitch it down by hand. I also noticed that the skirt part has some hi-low shaping to it. Oh well – I can live with it in a toile.

Costs

Fabric – Polyester double knit  2 m @ $8.00 per metre           $16.00

Pattern – Jalie 3677 Helene                                                             $12.75

Totals = approximately $28.75

Annoyance factor – Low, aside from the self-inflicted unpicking.

Do it again? Yes, though I might move the pockets closer to the centre front. I will also add some width to the centre front and consider buttons and remove some height from the collar at the centre back. I may also reduce the back length so that it sits on my natural waist and I might straighten the hem. I really like this cardigan and see it being worn a lot.

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Kibbe sewing 3 – more wedding trousers

So the Craftsy/McCalls trousers were a dud. The problem was the fabric, it bagged out terribly the minute I put it on. And it was super hot. Not what I need in the overheated work environments I am in. Therefore I needed another pair of trousers. I always need more trousers.

Vogue 2948 came out of the pattern stash. I bought it a few years ago from Craftsy. It was included in the “Pants Fitting Technique” by Sandra Betzina. I like the yoked waistband. They seem to suit me (and my tummy) better. I settled on View A with the side zip but left out the tiny pockets.

After my hassles with the McCalls pattern I measured REALLY carefully. Both me and the pattern. I decided to use a straight size 16.  My reasoning was that this was a pattern for non-stretch wovens and I’m using bengaline. Plus, I’m currently in between a 16 and an 18.

I forgot about the Craftsy course until after I’d cut into the fabric…

The navy bengaline came from Seamstress Fabrics. Yeah I know – more bengaline. It is cheap enough for me to consider this a wearable toile. And nice enough for me to wear them to work. Or a wedding.

After I cut the fabric I remembered the course and cued up the section on fitting. And promptly forgot to watch it. I very carefully sewed up two left legs.

Blast and double blast.

I had enough fabric to cut another leg, but decided to unpick instead. So that’s four seams of straight stitching and two of zig zagged topstitching. Inevitably Fifi puss found the threads.

A bit of ironing and some more super careful sewing and I had a proper right leg and a left leg. I left the outer side seams open and zoomed up the crotch. Next came the yokes. Instead of interfacing I used two layers of swimwear lining. I like a bit of stretch and recovery around my middle.

In addition I trimmed 1 cm off the side seams of the yoke and eased the yoke onto the trouser front and back. I put in an invisible zip into the left side seam, stitched up the right side and tried them on. Excellent fit. Very comfortable for sitting, breathing and singing.

Next came a certain label from ‘Kylie and the machine’ which says “Sewing is sexy”. After the yoke lining went in there was more zig zag top stitching and hemming.

I like them a lot.

Costs

Fabric – Navy bengaline  2 m @ $18 per metre              $36.00

Swimwear lining – Can’t remember, this is a guess          $3.oo

Pattern – McCalls 6901 + Craftsy course                          $25.00

Totals = approximately $61.00

Annoyance factor – Low, aside from the self-inflicted unpicking.

Do it again? Yes. Next time with the tiny pockets.

 

 

 

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Wedding trousers, Kibbe sewing two

We received a wedding invitation for a colleague of my husband. It was to be in the function centre of a winery and “formal”. My husband used the opportunity to dry clean several suits and replaced a shirt. Lucky him. I decided to use the Frocktails top I made in 2017, this would be its’ third outing. When I made it I had intended to also make trousers and now I was finally getting around to them.

McCalls 6901 came with the Palmer/Watson Craftsy course on tissue fitting trousers. These completely fit the brief for Kibbe Classic trousers: Soft, slightly tapered, straight leg or boot cut silhouettes, classic tailoring elements such as slanted pockets. Clean, tailored styles with a minimum of detail. Plain front or trouser-pleated. I had followed the instructions and cut them out early in January. At the start of March I decided to sew them up.

Fifi puss was not happy. She was very comfortable on my pattern pieces.

The pattern has huge seam allowances, to allow space for alterations. I selected size 22 (going on my hip size) and set about overlocking all the edges. I didn’t want any fraying while I fiddled with the fit.

The pockets went in easily, the zip insertion was adequately described. The waistband was also easily attached. I used ribbed elastic instead of interfacing. I pulled it through the waistband so that it decreased the waist measurement by a couple of centimetres. This prevents me from re-adjusting trousers all day and allows for the continual up and down in my work. I used a press stud and trouser hook for closures. All good.

I took out a lot of fabric from above the hips. Each dart was deepened and lengthened. I took in the centre back seam and the side seams. I removed almost 12 cm from the waist, tapering to 2cm at the hips. After cutting the pieces I had a break of several weeks. In those weeks I did bootcamp and lost some excess flesh. It would have been better if I had started with the 18. I have traced off a new pattern, starting with the size 16 at the waist and blending to other sizes as per my alterations.

Costs

Fabric – Black poly suiting  1.8m                   $15.00

Elastic – black 2.5cm ribbed elastic                 $1.50

Pattern – McCalls 6901 + Craftsy course      $25.00

Totals = approximately $46.50

Annoyance factor – Medium to low.

Do it again? Yes, with the improved alterations and a better fabric.

I’ve worn them several times and I like how they feel around my waist and calves. Around my thighs is a different story. They are rather baggy! I have tried valiantly to get photo’s but black is impossible!

 

 

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Baby bibs

A friend had a baby boy. We are not super close so waited until things settled (a bit) before visiting. So that meant almost six months. If memory serves, that means the lad will be starting solids and sitting upright unaided. Possibly considering the concept of crawling.

This friend appreciates hand made gifts and I wanted to make something. I don’t often feel the need to create things for babies. I prefer to give something to the mother. I racked my brain for what was super useful when our three were little. Sleeved bibs! I found several freebie patterns via pinterest and picked one that had the least pages to print. It was from Fleeting Thing, whose website appears to have disappeared.

I found a hand towel we never used, shower curtain lining (from my own children’s bibs – 19 years ago), some pyjama remnant fabric and a few badges for fun. Remember my bengaline trousers with awesome pockets? I used them too.

I got the construction order a bit mangled. I attached the lining to the front with sleeves attached so that there would be no raw edges. But I didn’t finish the underarm sleeve so had to turn a tiny hem. Spotty bias binding went around the neck edges. Adding elastic to such a small wrist area was mistake number two. It was very awkward.

I fixed that on the next two. This time I stitched the cuff elastic channel, then inserted the elastic. Next, I stitched the underarm seam, catching the elastic.

Then came the shoulder seam to the front of the bib. The fourth step was to attach the bias binding to the sleeves and neck. Finally some velcro, to keep the back flap bits together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

They seem impossibly small. Yet they are sized to fit a 12 to 18 month child. I don’t know if the intended baby is big or small. Here are all the gifts:

 

All in a reusable gift bag. Stacking cups, bibs and a sipper cup for the lad. My all time favourite gift for new mums – hand cream for home and for the nappy bag.

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Leggings for the younger lass

The younger lass needed another pair of leggings for dance class. The design brief was very simple – plain long leggings. We raided the fabric stash and I very generously offered some beautiful patterned fabric that I’ve been hoarding for me. From left to right – black active wear, patterned cotton spandex, blue double brushed poly (DBP) and black DBP.

The younger already had a pair of black DBP leggings and was unwavering in wanting another pair exactly the same. So very Melbourne Black!

This time I used the Made to Measure Leggings template pattern from the mother ~ daughter team at Sewhere. I’ve used the template to make bike shorts for myself.

I measured the younger’s circumference at her waist, hips, knees and ankles. Next came the vertical measurements between waist – hips – knees – ankles, then I measured her outside leg. These transfer to points on the template.

Joining the dots means I got a leggings pattern for the younger. Cut out two legs and away I went. The beauty of black DBP is that it has no observable nap or right/wrong side.

I stitched up the inside leg and crotch using a three thread overlock stitch. The younger likes having stretch thread in the loopers – so soft on her skin. I gave her many colourful options for cover stitching the waistband and hems:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The younger refused everything. She insisted on black for the waistband and no hemming at all at the ankles.

Costs

Fabric – Black DBP from LA Finch fabrics  $10.00

Elastic – black 2.5cm ribbed elastic $1.50

Pattern – M2M leggings $20.00

Totals = approximately $32.00, allows money for elastic and thread.

Do it again? Oh yes, this was a fuss free make.

The younger is happy!

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Style Arc Fifi – Kibbe sewing one

I am slowly trying out new trouser patterns. Several of these have been from Style Arc, with rather mixed results. Style Arc patterns are known for their sparse instructions, contemporary designs and superb drafting. All true. Style Arc is a trio of three terrific women from Melbourne. I’ve been to their offices twice via the Frocktails shopping tours and would like to support them.

I bought the Fifi trousers hoping it would be a blend of easy to make and wear trousers, with pockets. As it turns out, they fit the more relaxed edge of the Kibbe Classic, it has a yoke, slanted front pockets, clean lines. Yay! As an added bonus, these are trousers I can wear for work in my slightly increasing small business.

Image from Style Arc website

I checked the finished measurements against me, everything matched up OK (ish). I decided to just make the three quarter length. As always, the drafting was spot on. The waist elastic instruction was to cut the waist measurement, but neglected to suggest subtracting the front panel length. Fortunately I realised in time.

The pocket gapes a bit and shows the lining fabric.

The elastic waist gives a rather square shape. As it will be covered by a shirt, that is OK. I think it is time to accept that I will always need a zip. This is the waist at the back.

There is just enough stretch in the waistband to squeeze past my hips and bottom. I liked the nice deep hem I got when I chose the right length for me. This was accidental, but something to remember.

The details:

Pattern – Fifi trousers – Style Arc                            $5.00 (on sale)

Fabric – 1.6m of navy blue lightweight denim with minimal stretch, from stash, uncertain origin. Pocket lining was cut from the scraps of my husband’s waistcoat lining. No idea how much either fabric was.

Elastic – also from stash, but recent. I think it was $1.50 per metre and I used around 70cm.   $1.00

Interfacing – I used sew in woven interfacing which is quite firm. It was leftover from a certain dress made for my daughter. I originally bought 2 metres x 120cm and used almost 30cm. There is a lot of this stuff left!

Total in money – $6.50

Do it again? Very likely. With alterations to the pocket bag, I’ll connect it to the centre front seam and maybe consider a centre front zip.  A zip opening would give extra space and mean that I could reduce the elastic to the back waist only.

 

 

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Kibbe sewing

I’ve been enjoying the wonderful series by Doctor T Designs on the Kibbe method for determining what styles of clothing suit women. The method is incredibly detailed with several main types, each with sub-type variants. Doctor T goes into a lot of detail about each type and then each sub-type. She then provides three levels of formality and detail (from casual to evening wear) for each type.  To really underscore her amazing attention to detail all these posts are accompanied by multitudes of patterns and suggestions. Most of this happened in the latter part of 2018. Then on January 1st she created the Kibbe Challenge.

Normally I avoid the sewing world challenges. But this one really suits me. Step one is to determine my Kibbe type. Initially I thought I maybe the soft classic sub-type, but a review made me realise I am very much a Classic. Their clothes are typically:

  • Clean lines that follow the body shape.
  • No fussy details like ruffles, lace, sequins and dramatic sihouettes.
  • More likely to use natural fibres like wool and linen.
  • Emphasis on solid colours, prints are are understated and small.

The next few steps are about clearing out your existing wardrobe, working out what clothes you need that fit your lifestyle, finding the colours that best suit me and choosing patterns. Then Dr T suggests combining this with other sewing challenges like #sewnine or one of the SWAP variants.

OK! I can do this! I’m going to work Kibbe into my hopes for 2019 starting with number one – trousers. A Kibbe classic trousers are meant to have clean lines with a tapered/straight or boot cut leg. Some waist pleats but no gathers. Pockets are more likely to be inset rather than a patch feature. I rather get the feeling that the trousers are there to support whatever else you are wearing. So, simple and stylish, and possibly a little boring.

 

 

Black – using McCalls 6901 and the Palmer/Pletsch fitting course from Craftsy. I need black trousers for two work sites. These are most certainly Kibbe plain. If this pattern works as I hope, they will be the template for all future work trousers. All in wool blends.

 

 

Navy – Style Arc Teddy – I could wear these to work and probably will. They are perhaps a bit too interesting for Kibbe Classic trousers. Given I will be doing them in a navy wool blend I think they’ll be just fine.

Image from the Style Arc website

 

 

 

 

Navy – Style Arc Fifi – I’ve made the three quarter length. The pattern image makes them seem to have wide legs. Actually they have a straight cut from the thighs to hem. These will be in the next post.

 

 

I’ll probably alternate trousers with tops for work, then whatever else on my list that takes my fancy. My colours, how I found them and my proposed shirts and jacket, will all be in future posts.

Anyone else doing this?

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Chambray trousers

New trousers were needed. Thankfully not in black bengaline (for a change), but in chambray bengaline. It came courtesy of the awesomeness that is Kat and Seamstress Fabrics.

From the SA website

I chose Style Arc Barbs (again) and considered yet another modification to include pockets. I like slanted front pockets. I forgot about these trousers for awhile and did other things. When I came back to these trousers I had succumbed to a Style Arc sale and bought the Airlie trouser pattern. A bit later I had printed it out (on A4 – groan), taped it up and was ready to go.

I did a careful flat pattern measure, and put my much modified Barbs over the Airlie to compare the crotch curves. Ordinarily I’d cut the pattern but decided to trace it instead. I guess #teamtrace is getting to me!

At a sewing day I laid out the pattern pieces, cut them and stitched it up. I used the overlocker for most of it. One of the attendees at the sewing day was a retired seamstress. She and I puzzled over the SA instructions for the pockets. We agreed on a method that was possibly different to the SA method, but I’m really not sure.

I am very proud of these pockets, I took my time and I think they look lovely. So proud I took one more shot with the pretty shadows from my curtains.

Despite measuring carefully these trousers are both too small and too large for my liking. If I lost several kilos they may fit me around my thighs and bum. But they will still be too tight around my calf muscles and way too large around my waist. I’ve checked the pattern description and it says “slimline”, so I guess that gives away that it was never going to work on me!

Bengaline is an easy fabric to work with. It will press flat but also does not need to be ironed. But I don’t think I will ever like it. I don’t like wearing it as I find synthetics make me uncomfortably hot. I will use up the remainder of my stash and not buy anymore.

Costs

Fabric – 1.5m chambray bengaline  – $27.00

Elastic – from stash, I should keep better records.

Pattern – PDF download on sale, I think it was $12.00

Totals = approximately $40.00, allows money for elastic and thread.

Do it again? I don’t think so.

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2018 reflections, hopes for 2019

In February 2018 I wrote about what I wanted to do in 2018 and then immediately forgot it. I discovered the post just recently and was a little startled at what did and didn’t get done.

In 2018 I wrote that I had the following sewing goals:

I would like to make some things for my husband. He needs a tangible thanks for choosing the perfect overlocker and coverstitch machines. Thinking that a waistcoat is a good start.

Yes, this happened. He got both a Belvedere waistcoat and Finlayson Jumper from Thread Theory. The jumper is blogged here. The waistcoat is as yet unblogged. My husband is happy with both, although he has yet to have an occasion for the waistcoat.

I need active wear. Everything I have is old, stretched and almost see through. Working on sewing bathers at the moment.

Sorta didn’t happen. I made two rashies to protect my lily-white celtic skin in our ridiculous sun. I also made a very ordinary bikini. No other active wear.

I need a semi formal jacket or blazer of some sort. 

No, this didn’t happen.

I need more tops.   

Several long sleeved t shirts using the Grainline Lark pattern and I had a French Terry raglan shirt crush happening for a bit.

I hope to find a non-synthetic alternative to Bengaline.

Didn’t happen, don’t think it exists. Except maybe stretch twill, which is very tricky to source and less stretchy.

I also planned to make more trousers and work shirts for me. I made one long sleeved shirt (here) and one work appropriate raglan short sleeved shirt which has not been blogged. My work has morphed again and I need work shirts. I really do need more work trousers!

 

I’m calling these “2019 hopes” as anything else is too specific.

  1. Trousers – full length in black and navy,  3/4 length in blue and maroon.
  2. Tops! I need tops that are suitable for work, at least two more. A few more short sleeve t shirts would be good too.
  3. Swimwear – using the beautiful fabric and the patterns I already have.
  4. Casual bottoms, leggings for under my tunics and pinafore.
  5. A proper tailored wool jacket.
  6. Undies, it’s time to make undies.

 

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Sewing for the lasses

The elder lass is at uni and loving it. Learning is important to her. She likes the idea of learning to sew, just not actually sewing for more than 30 minutes at a time #ZGen. She chose some fabric for herself and her sister, for tshirts. The elder wanted long sleeve shirts.

The younger lass needed fresh tshirts for school. Enter Mum, the overlocker and the coverstitch machine. One morning at social sewing to cut out and make up three tshirts in grey, grey blue and blue with clouds.

I think she wears the clouds the most.

Costs

Fabric – various cotton knits on sale from Spotlight. $45.oo

Pattern – Grainline Lark – used so often it is practically free by now.

Total = $45.00

Do it again? – yes. Very soon most likely.

The long sleeved tees for the elder lass? When she cuts them out, I’ll stitch them up!

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